Buying Skis
With hire fees increasing even though the equipment is often still poor, and the problems of adjusting to new unfamiliar set-ups, it is time to take advantage of the amazing value for money now available through all levels of modern skis. It’s the best way to make sure you have the right tool for the skiing you want to do, and you’ll maximise your performance as you use a ski tuned to your ability and style.

The following is designed to help you choose your perfect set of skis – often a daunting task but don’t worry, we have deliberately de-mystified all the jargon and made simple all the facts (and you can ski them on snow before you part with the cash: see our Try-Before-You-Buy page). This is your guide to explaining the icons, graphics and technical information you will find used throughout our ski section..

Skier Ability
So often in life to get the best you have to pay the most but this really isn’t the case with skis. Expert level skis are expensive but are actually only suitable for experts – unless you are on top of your game 100% of the time and want a demanding highly tuned performer, don’t go near these babies. If you are an intermediate, buy an intermediate ski, they are not low tech punter skis but use many of the high-end expert components tuned specifically to delight the intermediate skier. You will ski better on it, enjoy yourself more and also save a bundle of money you can put towards an extra weekend on snow. Be honest with yourself and with our ski technicians, this way you can be sure to get the right equipment. Think about your current ability and your aspirations, and also where you are going to use the ski.

Jargon Buster
Radius
The phrase “radius” used in this catalogue/website refers to a ski’s sidecut radius and can be thought of as the ‘natural’ turn size of that ski. Assuming that due to its curve, the edge of a ski could be one part of a circle, then the sidecut radius would be the radius of that circle. These figures are given in metres. Factors that will affect the sidecut radius are the ski’s length and sidecut depth. The phrase turn radius is slightly different as turn radius is variable and depends on the person using the ski - applying more reverse camber or bend will create a smaller turn radius.
Typically, skis designed for on-piste skiing will have a short radius of 10 to 18m so they will initiate a turn and carve easily, whilst skis designed for maximum off-piste use will have a 25m+ radius. Freeride skis are somewhere in between as they need to function both on and off piste. New for this season are the all terrain hybrid skis such as the Atomic Metrons and Salomon Scramblers that have a small radius but can still be used off piste due to their wide waist.

Sidecut/Shape
The phrase “sidecut” used in the catalogue/website refers to the ski’s dimensions at the widest points of the tip and tail and at the waist, or middle of the ski. Measured in mm, sidecut is shown in the order: tip/waist/tail. The term sidecut can also refer to the distance in mm’s equivalent to half the gap at the waist if a pair of skis was put side by side, edge to edge, with both tips and tails touching.
A deep sidecut will create a ski with a small radius, so generally this will suit a piste-orientated ski as it will carve turns easily. Skis with shallow sidecuts will have a much larger radius suiting deeper snow as turns are less likely to be carved and to have more shape would potentially be trickier in cut up conditions.

As well as the actual depth of sidecut, or ‘amount of shape’, the combination of the tip, tail and waist widths will also affect how the ski reacts.
Waist: A wide waist found on Freeride and Backcountry skis will offer lots of floatation and stability so you can cruise through deep snow, but on groomed snow they will feel slightly sluggish as they are slow to change edges. Narrow waists feel very quick from edge to edge when on-piste but will not float so well off it. Typical sizes at the waist are 62-68mm for piste skis, 69-75mm for all terrain, 75-85mm for freeride and anything bigger than that is for the deep stuff baby.
Tail: Tail widths affect the feeling of carving at the end of a turn, skis with wide tails like the Salomon Streetracers will ‘hold’ at the end of a turn locking you into the carve with less loss of momentum, whilst skis such as the Atomic B:9 have a narrower tail making them easier to skid but are more controllable.
Tip: Tip width is also important, for example a wide tip and narrow waist give excellent turn initiation as the ski will roll smoothly into a carve, this is especially noticeable on the Head i.C 160 and the other Head Cybers.

There are many differences in the sidecuts and shapes that will create certain types of skis and it is worth noting the dimensions as you compare models.

Selecting the correct size of ski
The size of the ski you need is dependent on a combination of factors.
Weight: Your weight is more important than your height as it is this that makes the ski flex or ‘bend’. Heavier skiers need bigger (or stiffer) skis so that there is more stability and surface area, lighter skiers should think about smaller sizes as they may have less power to flex the ski.

Ability/Aggressiveness: The longer the ski the more edge there is for extra grip, and the more base for stability. Cautious skiers should think about down sizing as they do not need the stability at speed but would benefit from extra manoeuvrability of a smaller ski.

Intended Use: The end use has an important influence on the size. The following recommendations are assuming height and weight are roughly in proportion (again be honest!).
Piste Use - chin height to eye level, for easy carving and responsiveness.
All Mountain - nose level to forehead, though the Metrons, and to some extent the Scramblers, can be skied shorter than this.
Freeride - eye height to top of head height is a good size for extra floatation where you’ll need a few more cm’s.
Freestyle - ski it nose level for the maximum ease of spinning and rail tricks but go bigger for all mountain versatility.
Backcountry - go as big as you can handle for maximum floatation (and lift queue kudos).

The size of your previous skis may also be a factor that should be considered. For further help on sizing speak to our staff who can give you detailed advice.

Whilst not listed in our ski tech info sections, another factor that is also important is ski stiffness, both tip to tail and torsionally. A stiff ski in length is harder to bend making it harder to carve but is more stable at speed. Softer flexing skis will nurture confidence and earlier improvements in technique because they require less energy and/or skill. A torsionally stiff ski is more resistant to twisting forces when on its edge and will therefore offer greater edge grip, whilst a torsionally softer ski will not have the same grip but it will be easier to control at slower speeds for cautious skiers. Again for further help on ski stiffness speak to our staff who can give you detailed advice.

Ellis Brigham Staffs' 06/07 Ski Test Reports HERE